A Train with a View

The railway line linking Cuneo to Ventimiglia and Nice

The Train of Wonders (Treno delle Meraviglie)

In a previous newsletter I mentioned that a railway line was voted by Italians as n.1 priority in need of funds for restoration, from a list of monuments and sites at risk. This railway links Cuneo in Piedmont to Ventimiglia in Liguria and then Nice in France. This railway is also known as the 'Ferrovia delle Meraviglie', or Railway of Wonders, and it was built over one hundred years ago.

At the time of building the route was incredibly audacious - the train runs for one hundred kilometres from the mountains of Cuneo, it descends over the Maritime Alps of Liguria, reaches Ventimiglia by the Ligurian Sea and then Nice on the Cote d'Azure. It therefore crosses not one but two natural parks - the park of the Italian Maritime Alps in Liguria and the Mercantour in France. This also means that in less than fifty kilometres, in a beeline, the train covers a difference in altitude of one thousand metres.

Given the fragile state of our planet travelling by train has become a mindful option. In the pandemic we have all travelled much less than before and now that we are beginning to pack our cases, many of us, where possible, are considering forms of transport which are less polluting than planes or cars.

The views from the train are all spectacular - you may not feel like opening the book you were planning to read but hey, this is a train you shouldn't miss!

If you fancy spending some time in Cuneo, well you won't regret it. You can climb up the Civic Tower which dates to the 1300s and have a fabulous panorama of the city below or go for a 'passeggiata' in the grandiose Piazza Galimberti where on Tuesday a very lively market take place. Walking around Cuneo feels very civilized and relaxing as there are eight kilometres of porticoes. Cuneo is very much in Savoy land. Indeed in the past it has been often fought over by the Savoy family, the French and even the Swiss. Its position on a plateau by two rivers made it a strategic and desirable location. In the course of two hundred years it suffered seven sieges. It was in fact given the status of 'city' in 1559 by Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy who wanted to reward Cuneo for its loyalty and resistance to the umpteenth French attack.

Talking of the Savoy family ... near Cuneo you can find Racconigi castle, which was one of the residences used by the Italian royals. Here you can visit the palace and in the summer months walk in the surrounding park which covers 170 hectares.

Medieval Street in Cuneo

Centovalli or Vigezzina Railway

Another wonderful railway is the Centovalli Ferrovia, which links Domodossola in Piedmont to Locarno in Switzerland. Centovalli means one hundred valleys and as you travel you will see not just valleys but also gorges, wild mountains, waterfalls and quaint villages perched up high on steep climbs. To give you some figures in two hours you cover fifty two kilometres, you cross two countries, 83 bridges and 31 galleries.

Again both the starting point and the destination are worth visiting too. Domodossola is a medieval town, which, like Cuneo, is in a very strategic position. It is near the border with Switzerland, and also close to Milan, Lake Maggiore and Piedmont. The name comes from the Val d'Ossola, where the town lies. At the heart of Domodossola is its beautiful Piazza del Mercato, which dates to the Renaissance period,and is surrounding by porticoes built in the 1400s. Some lovely palazzos, such as Palazzo Silva, face the Piazza and are are very deserving of a visit. Nearby is also Mount Calvario, which is another key place for its beautiful views.

Via Briona in Domodossola is also picturesque, being lined with historical houses with stone roof tiles, the so called 'tetti a piode'.

Centovalli Railway links Locarno (Switzerland) to Domodossola (Italy)

After all the travelling and the walking you will surely need a substantial dinner and Domodossola is most certainly not short of restaurants and bars. A typical dinner could consist of gnocchi, made with potatoes, chestnut or pumpkin. Then salami served on pan negar (black bread) which is made with rye flour and has sometimes also walnuts and raisins. For dessert you could go and buy some chocolates from the Officina del Cioccolato and eat them as you sip your espresso sitting at a bar in one of the piazzas. For drinking you could go to Balabiótt, which is a brewery making three types of beer - light, amber and dark ale.

Piazza del Mercato, Domodossola

Tuscany Nature Train
Moving towards central Italy I must mention a train journey which is an absolute gem and a fabulous experience. It is Treno Natura and it travels 51 km in Tuscany from Asciano near Siena to Monte Antico near Grosseto from April to December. It is actually a steam train and it runs only once a day in each direction covering mainly Val d'Orcia. The views are spectacular because Val d'Orcia is the absolute essence of Tuscany: gentle hills covered by vineyards, sunflowers or miles of golden wheat fields dotted here and there with green slender cypress trees. One of the first stops is San Quirico which is also on the Via Francigena, which is the pilgrim route that crosses Italy from the Alps to Rome. Other sites you can visit on route are the Sant'Antimo Abbey and Montalcino, which is world famous for Brunello wine.

Val d’Orcia, Tuscany

Italy's Transiberiana Railway

How can we have a Transiberian Railway in Italy? Well, it is a railway that crosses the small and fairly remote region of Molise and links Sulmona to Isernia reaching the snowy peaks of the Maiella massif at 1268 metres (over 4000 feet) of altitude. This is a wonderful rugged area of the Apennines and the railway covers 129 km, 21 stations, 58 galleries and 103 viaducts and bridges. Plenty of wonderful views for travellers!

So ... fancy catching the train?

Annalisa

Italy’s Transiberiana Railway linking Sulmona in Abruzzo to Isernia in Molise