Elegant Brescia, its Wonderful Treasures and a glass of Franciacorta Wine

Brescia and its Treasures

Brescia has a fabulous position at the foothills of the Alps, surrounded by vineyards.  In Roman times it was known as Brixia and was an important city.  After the fall of the Roman Empire, it gained even more importance and became one of the centres of the Longobards' Kingdom.  The Longobards took their name from their long beards and, despite the Romans calling them barbarians, became quickly quite civilized and continued the Dolce Vita.  To see the wonderful architecture and works of art they created I recommend you visit the archaelogical complex of Santa Giulia, which is the jewel in Brescia's crown.  This is called simply Museo di Santa Giulia, but as well as the museum it includes houses from ancient Rome still with their beautiful mosaic floors, two churches and a cloister.  Altogether Santa Giulia is 14,000 square metres (150,000 sq ft) of wonders with thousands of interesting artefacts which offer you a journey through Brescia history.

Frescoes from San Salvatore church inside the museum complex of Santa Giulia, Brescia

The most important square of Brescia is Piazza della Loggia (photo here below).  The piazza takes its name from Palazzo della Loggia, which is Venetian in style - its first foundation stone was laid in 1492, when Brescia belonged to the Republic of Venice.  The same year Columbus' caravel reached the Amaricas.
Palazzo della Loggia is where the council of Brescia has its seat, yet, if there aren't any official presentations or meetings you can walk in and ask to visit some of the splendid rooms, as I did.  The Sala dei Giudici has recently been restored and has some wonderful frescoes by the Campi brothers, famous artists whose work is in the most important galleries worldwide. 

Piazza della Loggia, Brescia

Opposite Palazzo della Loggia you have a graceful arcaded building with a fabulous astronomical clock, dating to 1547, which is similar to the one in Padua.  Above it stand two automatons, two metres tall bronze figures each, that strike the bell on the hour.  They are known in Brescia as the Macc de le Ure, Brescia dialect for Mad Men of the Hours.  Maybe, watching the hours go by drives you mad ...?!

Astronomical Clock, Piazza della Loggia, Brescia

Archaeological Park

The archaeological Park is a UNESCO world heritage site and totally fascinating.  Here you see the Capitolium which was a Roman temple of the 1st century, dedicated to Minerva, Juno and Jupiter and next to it a Roman theatre.  A lift then will take you underground where are rooms that used to be part of a Roman sanctuary. What struck me here was the perfect condtitions of the walls - you really see what Roman interiors used to look like.  The vivid colours are striking, reds and yellows being predominant, and the faux marble effect so incredibly effective. Roman decorators went as far as painting fake curtains onto walls, and both quality and detail here are quite special.
Here you will also see the statue of Winged Victory, a colossal bronze dating to the 1st century, which is quite rare and has become the symbol of Brescia. 

Entrance to Brescia Archaeological Park

Other sites to visit in Brescia are the medieval castle, from which you have a beautiful view of the city, and Piazza Paolo VI.  On one side this piazza is lined with a row of pretty cafes, and on the opposite side stand not one, but two cathedrals next to each other. One is the Duomo Vecchio, over one thousand years old and the second is the Duomo Nuovo, dating to the 1600s.  When I was there a few weeks ago in February the weather was mild enough and I sat at a table outside opposite the Duomo Vecchio and enjoyed a cappuccino while taking in the unusual view.  The Duomo Vecchio is a cavernous and mesmerising round basilica, with soaring domed ceilings and marble and frescoes everywhere.  There were only a handful of people visiting it, so it felt very atmospheric and special.  This is another good thing about Brescia, you really do not get many tourists or queues. 

Duomo Vecchio or Old Cathedral, Brescia

Interior of Duomo Vecchio, Brescia

Brescia is also the city of the Mille Miglia Storica, which is the vintage car race defined by Enzo Ferrari as the best race in the world.  Partecipating cars must have been made before 1957 and must be models of the cars that partecipated in the Mille Miglia races between 1927 to 1957.  The cars race from Brescia to Turin, then down to Rome and back to Brescia, stopping 5 times and taking 4 days.  Stirling Moss famously won it in 1955 and his record still hasn't been broken, 10 hours, 7 minutes and 48 seconds. 

Mille Miglia Storica, Brescia 2023

When it comes to food and drink you will find very good restaurants right in the centre of Brescia, like Antico Beccaria.  The typical aperitif here is Pirlo, which is a cocktail made with Campari, wine and sparkling water.  It reminded me of a spritz but Bresciani people say that it is completely different! What do I know ...

Brescia is famous for its Franciacorta wines, which are produced only in the province of Brescia. They are a range of wonderful sparkling wines. The fermantation happens in a bottle like champagne and over 18 months.  They are more expensive than Prosecco but absolutely delicious.  I definitely say cheers to Brescia, so little known and so deserving of a visit.  

Antico Beccaria Restaurant, Brescia