Superb Genova - Medieval Streets, Fabulous Palaces and St George's Flag

Superb Genova 

Hello everyone,

I spent last week in Genova and I can tell you that it deserves to be called 'Superb', or La Superba, as Italians have called it over the years.  This is a truly fascinating city with bags of charm and signs of important history at every corner.  The most striking aspect is that it has a large medieval street system and at the same time so many grand palaces.  The effect is incredible, as you walk tight alleyways and  look up at the tall facades of Renaissance palaces, then your eyes are drawn beyond them to the cut outs of blue sky. The medieval part of the city reminded me of Venice, which was for centuries the second maritime republic and arch enemy of Genova.  In Genova the alleyways, or carrugi, are even narrower and curved, unlike what you see in the rest of Italy.

Genova Porticos

The Spaniards called the period from 1550 to 1650 el siglo de los Genoveses, the century of Genova, because this was the heyday of Genova, when its trade and links to both Spain and the Netherlands, saw the city become wealthy beyond its European counterparts.  In reality Genova golden period lasted much longer (until 1790), but it was from the 1570s that the most sumptuous palaces were built along a new road, Strada Nuova, which was much wider that all other streets.  Although not that wide by normal standards! During this period famous painters such as Van Dyck, Rubens, Tintoretto, Tiepolo, Fragonard, Jean Luis David and so many others lived in Genova whilst painting for the important Genoese families. 

Nowadays Strada Nuova is also called Via Garibaldi and is a pedestrian area.  Here you find the IAT tourist office, where you can buy a ticket to visit the city palaces.  Prices are very reasonable, and you can ask for a (human) guide.  My friend and I were accompanied by a young man called Giacomo for a couple of hours and he was a true mine of information. 

Palazzo Rosso, one of the most famous palaces of Genova

In Genova there is almost a flavour of the Middle East, particularly when you see street food eateries called sciamadde, from the arab word for 'cooking with flames'.  They sell typical Genoese foods, from fugassa, or focaccia, with beets and spring greens, to panissa, which is a bread made with chick peas and then fried, from friscioeu, which are savoury fritters, to panera, which is probably one the most delicious things I have eaten in my entire life, a cross between clotted cream and coffee, but believe me this description doesn't do it justice. 

Another quaint aspects of this city is the number of votive shrines on the corner of each alleyway.  Then you are reminded that the sea is treacherous and the people of Genova, be it wealthy merchants or sailors, risked their lives or at least their livelihood each and every working day. 

Votive shrines are frequent in carrugi, Genova alleyways

I was surprised by the number of historical shops in Genova, officially sixty two.  The word is botteghe storiche and they are protected by Genova council because they represent a precious heritage that must not be lost.  I loved Romanengo, which has been selling chocolates and sweets for two hundred years and has burr walnuts cabinets, chandeliers and frescoes walls.  Also Turielli, which is perhaps the oldest grocery shop in Italy.  Here you will find the best spices in the city, over 250, alongside their own coffee blend, which they roast and grind, every tea under the sun, alongside biscuits, pasta, and everyday food.  Most things are kept in huge glass jars, or sacks, history and environmental concerns minimize the use of plastic here. 

Boccadasse little beach, on the outskirts of Genova

Churches are also great to discover and they are a mix of medieval and baroque architecture.  San Lorenzo is the most important and has striking decorations in black and white marble.  My favourite church from the outside is San Pietro dei Banchi, built in 1572 on top of shops, a unique case I believe in the world! Of course, religion and trade being two fundamental aspects of Genova history. 

Church of San Pietro dei Banchi

The flag of Genova has been the St. George's flag from around the year 1,000 but the legend that Richard of England paid Genoa to be able to use the flag to protect its ships is .... well ... just a legend.  The flag of St. George comes from the Crusaders and both England and Genova got it from them.  I believe the Bayeux tapestries show Normans carrying the flag, so this is contemporary to Genova adoption of the flag.  If you know differently please let me know …

San Lorenzo Cathedral