From Fermignano to Senigallia and Cesare Borgia's Machiavellian Revenge

Hello everyone,

Apologies for my long silence - I spent a portion of this Autumn in Italy, helping my parents as they got Covid, then I got Covid myself and then ... I just got very busy with a few projects I am working on.... There are never enough hours in a day! 

Fermignano is a very picturesque 'borgo' (ancient village) in the Marche region.  It is famous in its region for many reasons, such as being the birthplace of Renaissance architect Donato Bramante, for the Roman bridge, and then for a couple of quirkily charming festivals.  Bramante was really the front runner in the revolution which was the Renaissance.  He reintroduced the classical principles of symmetry and proportion in architecture and designed the new St. Peter's Cathedral in Rome, as well as the Belvedere court in the Vatican.

The quirky festivals are two - the Palio of the Frog and the Grand Prix of 19th century Penny Farthing.  The first is an historical tournament that takes place the first Sunday after Easter and competitors race real frogs, isn't that weird, for 170 metres.  As well as the race this festival consists of a market, street performances, fireworks and tastings of local specialities.  The Grand Prix of Penny Farthing sees instead representatives of the seven districts of the town competing through the streets of the town by cycling penny farthings. The riders wear period clothes and there are also again performances, exhibitions, a market and much more supporting the occasion. 

Fermignano is located in a beautiful spot on the Apennines, not far from Gola del Furlo, which is a spectacular canyon created over millennia by the river Candigliano.  You can walk or cycle in the gorge - here was the passage used by the Romans when travelling from Rome to Rimini, where by the way is another beautiful Roman bridge.  Gola del Furlo is part of a National Park and here you can see golden eagles, peregrine falcons, woodpeckers and even wolves.  I suppose you wouldn't really want to see the wolves! 

Gola del Furlo, Le Marche

Senigallia

From Fermignano going towards the sea you reach Senigallia, which is very historical and a pretty seaside town.  It boasts a beach with famously soft sand which gets the name 'La spiaggia di velluto', i.e. the velvet beach.  The sand is indeed lovely but I would advise  spending less time in the seaside part, which is quite commercialised and instead visiting the historical centre which is a great place for a stroll, aperitivo and dinner of course. Here the streets are picturesque and restaurants are of a higher standard.  I particularly liked Piazza Roma and the Foro Annonario, which is a semi-circular space enclosed by a spectacular curved building with columns.  

Foro Annonario, Senigallia

If you get to Senigallia by train, as Ian and I did, as you exit the railway station and cross the road you find yourself by a fortress and not far from the river and the marina.  A fortress has been here since the Middle Ages, although the present one was rebuilt in the 1500s by the Della Rovere family.  This fortress is indeed the most distinctive Senigallia building, Not far from it is a plaque in memory of the 'beautiful deceit' devised by duke Cesare Borgia in order to trick, ambush and kill a group of signori, earls, who had betrayed him but then asked for forgiveness.  It was Machiavelli who called Cesare's revenge a beautiful deceit (un bellissimo inganno).  

Fans of Cesare Borgia are thin on the grounds nowadays and it is here in Senigallia that you will find the ONLY place named after the duke in Italy - it is Piazza del Duca by the fortress.  

Fortezza Roveresca (Della Rovere Fortress), Senigallia

Le Marche Food and Wine 
Le Marche region has really yummy food and wine. One of the local specialities which can be found in any good restaurant is the Brodetto di Pesce, which is a fresh and aromatic fish stew made with seafood, monkfish, cuttlefish and crab.   The restaurant L'Angolo sul Mare in Senigallia also serves a delicious home made pasta, called passatelli (made with egg yolks, flour and parmesan cheese) which is served with vongole and pomodorini.  Aren't we told that cheese and fish shouldn't go together?! I suppose rules are there to be broken ...

One of the local best wines is an intense and fruity red called Lacrima di Morro d'Alba which goes extremely well with the local salamis and cured meats.  Talking about salamis there is also a delicious cake which is made of dry figs but looks like a salami and is called lonzino di fico.  With your espresso you could ask for a shot of Visciolata, which is a liqueur made from sour cherries.  Having a shot alongside your coffee is called in Italian 'ammazzacaffé', which translates as 'coffee killer'.  Why you would wish to kill the taste of coffee in your mouth I really do not understand, but apparently this used to be a custom for men who, after a dinner, would go to the salotto to drink liqueurs and smoke... Those were the good old days ... or not! 

Finally, the gelateria-cioccolateria Paolo Brunelli has been awarded the highest accolade for its gelati. So, Senigallia is definitely a good destination for a foodie weekend. And, weather permitting, the velvety beach is a good place for a rest after all that food.