Swimming Among Roman Ruins in a Queen's Pool and Lake Molveno Secret

Massa Lubrense, Amalfi Coast

Hello everyone,

Massa Lubrense is a pretty and very quiet little town just 5 km from Cape of Sorrento. It is so different from the more popular and crowded towns and a great spot to relax, swim or go on a boat trip.

Thanks to my brother and sister in law last summer we spent a week in Massa Lubrense and thanks to my nephew and nieces, I discovered the most amazing location for a wild swim, it is called Bagni Regina Giovanna and is just outside Sorrento and on the way to Massa. This is a natural swimming pool, which is almost entirely enclosed by rocks and the ruins of a Roman villa. The name of Baths of Queen Giovanna refers to the story that queen Joanna of Naples used to come here on holiday and swim, it is said, with her lovers. She lived in the 14th century when Naples had its own kingdom and royals. As it often happens in Italian folklore, powerful women were thought to be either saints or corrupt and promiscuous. Giovanna belongs to the second group. The ruins of the Roman villa date to the 1st century AD and a Latin text of the time gives a very detailed description of the wonders of this villa. Why such an opulent villa was built here is of course due to location, location, location.

Ruins of Villa del Capo, Massa Lubrense

The whole site is vast. You can arrive here, as we did, by a SITA bus, which runs from Sorrento to Massa Lubrense three times every hour. You should get off the bus at Marina di Puolo and then walk down towards the sea for about 20 minutes (trainers or walking shoes are recommended). As you walk down you will realize you are walking on a typically paved Roman road and you will be coasting Roman walls and what used to be Roman gardens. The scent of fig trees and Mediterranean brush will accompany you as you walk. As you get close to the sea you will find the path splits into many forks and you can choose either to remain on the higher cliffs overhanging the bay or you can descend into the natural pool.

In the 1st c AD the property included a farmhouse high up on the promontory and a residential holiday villa closer to the water. If you decide you want to take a swim I highly recommend water shoes because you will have to negotiate slippery rocks in order to get to the water ... Unless of course you are prepared to dive from the high overhang and into the bay ... which Ian and his relatives did of course but sensible me preferred to keep my feet firmly on terraferma ... Once you are in the water you are rewarded by the wonderful coolness of clear emerald water and you are surrounded by the most astonishing structures. Rocks and ruins seem to have merged together and at times it is difficult to distinguish whether certain parts were made by nature or by man.

Lake Molveno, Trentino Alto Adige

Lake Molveno and the Secret Hidden in its Depth

After the Amalfi coast we spent a week in the Dolomites with my parents, as we usually do. In Trentino we stayed near Lake Molveno which is extremely alluring, with deep turquoise blue water and the pale and majestic peaks of the Brenta Dolomites around it. Being at 800 metres of altitude the temperature here was late twenties rather than mid thirties, so totally pleasant. In any case the lake water has a temperature in summer of between 14 and 21 degrees. So, taking a quick swim is a great way to cool down after a walk or a hike.

Molveno lake formed naturally about 3,000 years ago and it reaches a depth of 120 metres in places. Also there is more to it that it meets the eye ... Michele, one of the Alpine guides who led us on a walk, informed us that inside the lake lies an ancient and fossilized forest Studies have been carried out and it seems that the forest components are exactly the same as those of the forests which today surround the lake. A predominance for example in the higher slopes of fir trees, larches and pines. Also the presence of Dwarf Pines (Mugo Pines in Italian) which have extremely long roots (up to 10 metres) and therefore are essential to prevent landslides.

Lake Molveno and Brenta Peaks

A Roman Bridge and Napoleonic forts

Walking from the lake upwards towards Mezzolago we came across the remains of Napoleonic forts, which were actually built by the Austrians in the war against Napoleon. There is also a Roman bridge across one of the rivers that flows into the lake. It lies on a Roman road which was restored in 1265. Not too long ago then!

One evening we went on a guided 'astronomical walk' which took us to the outskirts of the town of Andalo and away from any artificial lights. How great to spot the various constellations in total darkness. Our guide also decided to talk about the local fauna. There are bears on the higher slopes, he said, but being bears they are not very sociable and like to keep well away from humans. Particularly from groups of humans. He also said that in forty years he has only spotted one bear and from a distance. He added 'if you really wish to meet a bear close up you must go on your own for a walk round lake Molveno at 5am or 6am. It is then that bears go down to the water edge to drink ...'. He added with a wink 'Now you know what not to do'.....

Menador Climb, Dolomites

The Menador Road

As well as avoiding solitary bears at the water edge at 5am you should also carefully avoid driving on the Menador road, see photo above. Unfortunately google Maps took us on this road when one day we drove from Lake Levico to Passo Vezzena. Ian was the driver as usual and I (who have a terrible sense of direction) was the navigator. As we started going up this very steep road it became progressively more and more narrow, unti in places it was clear that had another car come the opposite way one of the two should have had to reverse down to one of the wider points of the road. We also went through a few tunnels which were short but again extremely narrow. My father who was sitting on the back seat said quietly 'I think this is the road one of my friends once told me the locals avoid because it is 'diabolica', i.e. devilish'. My mother at this point decided to blame me and my satnav app. I would be lying if I said the conversation progressed quietly and civilly. We all started shouting telling Ian to drive 'piano' and 'piú piano'. He on the other hand was also terrified but wanted to get it over and done with as quickly as possible.

When we finally arrived at Passo Vezzena we were all totally exhausted. The Menador Road, now I know, is ten km long and goes up 3,000 ft high! It was built by the Austrians (again...) 150 years ago and was part of the Giro d'Italia 2022. After lunch my 92 year old dad got his paper map out of the car and announced he would navigate for the rest of the journey. Nobody objected to that. What can I say? As far as I am concerned in regard to civil engineering I would say Romans 1 - Austrians 0.

Menador Climb, Trentino